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pierotecchio63
Italy
39 Posts |
 Posted - 01/02/2011 : 03:19:34
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Another bunch of images...
Good work Akihiro! |
Edited by - pierotecchio63 on 01/02/2011 03:20:38 |
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gdist43
Japan
32 Posts |
Posted - 01/10/2011 : 16:55:18
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Sorry a few pics of updating. The new year holiday makes me lazy.. Unfortunately I have to give priorities on the other subject for the next issue of F1modeling magazine. So there will be no big update of this 917 building until mid-February... I apologize it.
I sprayed laquer clear coat on the body 10 days ago. It is inevitavle that some yarn wastes were caught up in the surface of clear, especially in the Winter season.
I sanded to remove the wastes with #1500 sand paper, and then clear-coated again. I will take time out from F1modeling schedule to polish it. |
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pierotecchio63
Italy
39 Posts |
Posted - 01/12/2011 : 11:34:45
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In my pics the top of the cap hasn't got the four holes that you made.
What are you going to do? |
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Ferrari2006
Germany
352 Posts |
Posted - 01/12/2011 : 12:31:13
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Regards to all Forum Members from Hans Herrmann
Just get it from him as i told him from this Tread !
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rossocorsa
Portugal
346 Posts |
Posted - 01/12/2011 : 14:26:11
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quote:
Originally posted by pierotecchio63
In my pics the top of the cap hasn't got the four holes that you made.
What are you going to do?
In this photo, from the Le Mans 1970 race, you can see the cap with 5 holes.
Great work Akihiro, as usual.
Ricardo |
Edited by - rossocorsa on 01/12/2011 14:28:33 |
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pierotecchio63
Italy
39 Posts |
Posted - 01/19/2011 : 06:26:50
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| This is the old question... To model the car as it is now or now it was when it was raced... |
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gdist43
Japan
32 Posts |
Posted - 03/18/2011 : 17:01:16
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Today I would simply notice you the 917K building was restarted yesterday. I sanded the surface of clear coat which I sprayed a couple of month ago.
I always back the sandpaper with thin styrene plate, to keep flat-sanding and to avoid over-sanding around edges. I feel it is better doing one more overcoat, otherwise a part of red paint and decals will get some damage when I finish the surface with polishing compound...
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Ferrarinut
USA
1489 Posts |
Posted - 03/18/2011 : 19:25:42
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| Welcome back Akihiro, I was so happy to receive your email reply so soon after the terrible earthquakes and to know you and your wife are safe. It is very encouraging to see your work again, we missed you! |
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formulamike
Germany
19 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2011 : 03:22:00
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Great to see more works,Akihiro, and we are happy that you and your family are ok, I wish all you the best for the future.
Formulamike |
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gdist43
Japan
32 Posts |
Posted - 03/22/2011 : 22:48:22
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The situation of the Tokyo area has calmed down and we get ourself under control as the nuclear plants has been almost cool down. I care suffering people in disaster areas but it is very few thing to do for me right now.Anyway, thanks for your concern again.
Last weekend I made the small clear lenses for the head lamp. First I engraved several lines on a cross section of aluminum rod and then pushed it into the heated PVC sheet.
Fortunately I have a few stock of various lamp rim and I chose a good pair for this model.
It is a minor question I should add a small position lamp between them or not before gluing the lamp cover which I sprayed yellowish. |
Edited by - gdist43 on 03/23/2011 00:03:29 |
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pierotecchio63
Italy
39 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2011 : 10:32:32
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| Always a neat work! As usual I'd rather say... |
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gdist43
Japan
32 Posts |
Posted - 04/05/2011 : 00:31:57
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I guess one of the cumbersome work in 1/43rd kit building is the fitting of the windshield and headlight covers. I tried to attach the side windows to the body, however, the PVC part in the original kit had some cracks due to the aging, it was no longer allowed to use for this model... I remade a new set of window by vacum forming and painted them moderate clear yellow from the backside.
Regarding the position lamp, I added 0.4mm nickel silver pin on the headlight housing and painted it orange.
I sprayed the final coat (laquer) at last. Every clear parts without the front window had been attached to the body with epoxy before the spraying.
It will take a week to harden the coat on the body, even I keep it in the box about 40 degree centigrade. I'm going to carry on the underbody and the cockpit. |
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moriaan
Netherlands
510 Posts |
Posted - 04/05/2011 : 00:46:37
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So you sprayed the clearcoat over the allready attached windows and headlight glasses?
Thats a new method for me, isn't there any problem with the glued surfaces?
Looks good!
Hans |
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gdist43
Japan
32 Posts |
Posted - 04/05/2011 : 03:47:34
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Hi Hans, I often sand the surface of PVC parts smooth with #1500 sandpaper, and then do thick clear coat. There have been nothing particular for many years... Oh, I just remember a problem which occurred in my little Ferrari about ten years ago...
I sprayed the final coat on the Ferrari body-I had already set the light cover with epoxy glue- and then put it in the drier box as usual. After a few minutes I checked the body surface and found a tinny balloon on recessed line between the light cover and the body. I guess the sealed up air in the light housing was heated and blew out through the micro hole... looked like a snot bubble, so funny problem it was... |
Edited by - gdist43 on 04/05/2011 03:51:57 |
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gdist43
Japan
32 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2011 : 06:31:00
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Today I picked up the body from the dryer box. Close inspection should reveal some dusts in the surface of the clear coat... I'm going to get rid of them with sanding after a period of days.
I started the cockpit part a few days ago. The steering wheel consist of the Tron's photo-etched spoke and a brass ring which was burned and rolled around the axis of a bold drill. I put them on the double-face tape and united with a solder.
I built the steering post and the gear lever from scratch. Various size of brass tubes and nickel silver strips assist my work.
I also made the bottom frame with the combination of nickel silver lines. The mold of the passenger seat has been removed as it looked a bit poor.
I dug my junk parts box and found a good white metal piece for the seat. The harness came from Tameo's photo-etched.
It was a time-consuming work to build these toggle switches. Some reference photos required me to add a small meter on the dashboard. I turned it with an aluminum rod and put it on the dashboard with a nickel silver stay.
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process of 917K
